Arrival in New Delhi, and from there a short flight to Allahabad. Yes, but the spirit travels at a different speed. This is a trip you have eagerly waited. Perhaps it was an awakening in the dead of night, or the curiosity of the anthropologist that sparked the need to join in one the oldest human activities: pilgrimage. Joining the Ardh Kumbh Mela is daunting, but wonderful. Millions of pilgrims are travelling to Allahabad, the ancient city of Prayag, where they will seek out salvation from the cycle of rebirth.
Needless to say, when you signed for this pilgrimage, one that includes millions of pilgrims, you conceded you might have to do away with more than a few comforts. To your surprise, the tented camp that will be your home for the following weeks is not only comfortable but positively luxurious.
The Ardh Kumbh Mela in an enormous congregation. Millions of pilgrims are looking to bathe in the sacred waters to purify their sins and be set free from the cycle of rebirth. It is a moving display of unity and empathy, as pilgrims from all walks of life gather here to acknowledge the human condition, and to seek reprieve from its shortcomings. In Allahabad it is truly unique, for here is the confluence of three rivers, two that you can see, the Ganga and the Yamuna, and one only perceivable by the spirit: the Saraswati. Through your guides and private access to sadhus and practitioners, you become somewhat acquainted with its waters.
The Naga Sadhus come from their Himalayan retreats only for the Kumbh Mela. They have renounced worldly possessions and for that reason they go completely naked, and covered in ashes like Shiva. It is a reminder of the impermanent nature of the world, and an unending commitment to seek out spiritual transcendence. Even they, who have renounced everything, come to the sacred rivers to be washed of sin. As they head to the waters in procession, you become aware of the waters of Saraswati, and you would swear they had never been as strong.
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