Arrival in Lima and then fly to Jaen. Your trials are not over because you must now make your way to Leymebamba. Here you find some rest. You are now in a very inaccessible region of the world. This is the junction of the Amazon rainforest and the Andes. A jungle feel blends with the imposing mountains to create a marvelous impression. In Leymebamba you meet with a local expert who introduces you to the artefacts and remains that are found in the museum. A lot of mummies to be precise. You get a glimpse into a long gone culture, whose echoes you are to search in the forbidding mountains. It is wonderful, and exciting, but also a bit scary.
Your first impression of the lost cultures of this region is the ravishing cliff-tombs of Revash. Some of these sites were only re-discovered in the later part of the 20th century. These houses of the dead are impressive, to say the least. The more you learn about this strange culture, the more intriguing it becomes, but you also find common ground: the need leave something behind.
You go deeper into the region, to Chachapoyas. Your adventure for the day is a hike of epic proportions. You are bound to reach Gocta waterfall. It falls from towering precipices and appears to be utterly inaccessible and remote. You have stepped into the fringes between travel and exploration.
The fortress of Kuelap is 3,000 metres above sea level. It is one of the few remaining testimonies of a civilisation that was conquered by the Incas, shortly before they themselves were conquered by the Spanish. As you walk through the roundhouses and caress the walls of what used to be, you can only wonder what else lies hidden in the Andean valleys, that none, for centuries, have seen.
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